- Cut a piece of clay that will be big enough for you to work with.
- Warm the piece of clay up in your hands until it starts to soften.
- Flatten the piece of clay into a circle.
- Spray a generous amount of clay lube onto your vehicle's bodywork.
- Work over the vehicle's bodywork in slow, straight motions.
- As soon as you clearly see dirt on your clay bar and/or it starts to feel grabby or scratchy, you should start folding it.
- Once the clay piece is laden with contaminates, use a fresh piece.
- Claying slowly and in straight motions, never in circular ones so you can see and feel when the clay starts to scratch. As soon as you clearly see dirt on your clay bar and/or it starts to feel grabby or scratchy, you should start folding it. If you use a clay block/mitt/towel/pad, make sure to wash it out often, ideally after every pass.
- Never using extensive pressure or quick motions because you spotted something on your paint that you want to „scrub“ away with your clay bar
- Folding a dirty and contaminated clay bar once instead of continuously folding and kneading it. By folding it once, you‘re sure that the lifted contaminants are as far inside the clay bar as possible.
- Never using a clay bar again that has dropped to the ground, as clay in its nature sticks to everything it touches. As soon as it hits the ground, it’s full of contaminants – even if you don’t see them. Don’t be greedy and risk scratches and throw such a clay away!
- Never reusing a clay bar and always using a fresh piece. This also means it makes more sense to use smaller pieces instead of the whole block of clay. This may sound like a waste of money and resources, however, keep in mind that you don’t clay your car every week or two but only if necessary and usually only before you polish it. So what’s 5 pounds worth of clay compared to a completely scratched up car just because you were greedy?
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